Author Archives: Rachel Patterson

Rose Care Basics

Beginners often become confused with the many recommendations and suggestions for growing roses. However, it is important to start with the basic guidelines for successful rose growing. Roses can thrive under many conditions, but they are sure to grow better, with more luxurious blooms and fewer problems, when you follow the basics. 

Prepare the Soil 

The proper soil is essential to nourish roses so they can grow to their full potential. To make the soil ideal for roses… 

  1. Take a soil sample to test the pH, either with a home testing kit or through your local extension service. Roses like a pH of 6.0 to 6.8. You may need to add lime to raise the pH or sulfur to lower it to the optimum rose range.
  2. Incorporate composted cow manure or other healthy compost into the soil. This will provide superior drainage and excellent organic material for roses to absorb.

Planting Roses

If they aren’t planted properly, roses won’t thrive as well as they could. Improper planting could even damage roots and destroy a rose bush. 

  1. Select a sunny spot with good soil drainage – roses require at least 6 hours of full sun daily. Early morning sun is preferred because it dries the leaves, which helps prevent disease.
  2. Dig a wide, shallow hole that is 2-3 times as wide but not quite as deep as the root ball (about 1 inch shallower). The plant should sit on solid ground so it doesn’t sink when the soil settles.
  3. Remove the plant from the pot and loosen any circling roots. If you can’t pull the roots apart, use a knife to make 4-5 vertical cuts in the root ball. This will allow new roots to grow out into the surrounding soil as the plant becomes established.
  4. Place the plant in the hole slightly elevated above ground level. Backfill with soil until the hole is half full.
  5. Soak the root ball with a mixture of a Root Stimulator & Transplanting Solution.
  6. Fill the rest of the hole with soil and water thoroughly. Apply mulch to a depth of 2 inches, being careful not to mound mulch against the trunk of the plant, which could encourage rotting or insect damage.

Pruning Roses 

To look their best, roses must be properly pruned. This can be intimidating for rose-growing novices, but once the basics are mastered, the techniques for pruning roses are not difficult. 

  1. In spring, remove winter mulch when new grow appears. Prune out all dead wood and twiggy growth and cut back to sound wood with a clean slanting cut, just above a good bud eye.
  2. During the growing season, remove fading roses promptly, cutting just above a five-leaflet leaf. This will help encourage reblooming on many cultivars, and will help prevent rot or disease infestation.
  3. To winterize, remove all fallen leaves and debris from the base of the plant, cut back to 10-12 inches after the ground freezes, then apply a mound of mulch over the canes to protect them from temperature shock. 

Food and Water 

Roses need the proper nutrition – water and fertilizer – to bloom well and develop stunning colors and fragrances. 

  1. Roses thrive best when given 1 inch of water weekly. A thorough soaking from rain or hose will keep roses blooming all season. Try not to overhead water unless it is early in the day, as the damp leaves can promote disease.
  2. Fertilize monthly with Espoma Rose-tone or similar products specially formulated for the nutritional needs of roses.

Treat for Disease and Pests 

There are times when roses will succumb to diseases and pests. Quickly recognizing these problems and treating them properly will help minimize outbreaks that can damage several rose plants at once. 

  1. Fungus diseases cannot be cured, so a regular spraying schedule is very important. Keep an eye on plants that were infected last year and spray with a fungicide to prevent outbreaks this year.
  2. You may also need to use an insecticide for severe insect problems. Minor problems can be handled with less harsh methods, but diligence will be necessary to keep pests from taking over the rose bushes.
  3. Many rose lovers find it convenient to use an all-purpose insect and disease spray once a week or a systemic control every 6 weeks.

It may seem like a lot of work to cultivate roses, but when you wander through your rose garden or see your favorite rose bush in full bloom, that effort will be well rewarded.

Spraying the roses

rose new budding

Garden Fence, Pink Roses

Vertical Gardening for Small Spaces

It’s easy to maximize even the tiniest garden space when you look up – and up, and up, and up. Whether you have a balcony, deck, small terrace, raised beds or container garden, vertical gardening is a great way to increase your cultivated ground and enjoy a more abundant harvest no matter how small your garden may be.

Options for Vertical Gardening

What types of vertical gardening techniques you can use will vary depending on the space you have and what you hope to grow, but it is always possible to take your garden up a level or two. Great options for vertical gardening include…

  • Elevated Containers
    Containers don’t have to be at ground level to be useful gardening space. Adding window boxes above a flower bed, for example, will give you more space to grow your favorite flowers, herbs or other plants. Some boxes can also be mounted on railings, adding extra growing space to a deck or balcony. Different sizes of pots and containers can be nested together to create a gardening tower perfect for trailing plants.
  • Hanging Containers
    Think from the top down when you opt for hanging pots or sleeve garden systems as part of your vertical gardening approach. Pots can be hung from hooks along a wall or fence, or may hang from an overhanging roof or the arch of an arbor, and each one is another opportunity to add more plants to your growing space.
  • Trellises
    Train different plants to take advantage of vertical space by providing trellises for them to use as they grow. Many vines and climbing plants will naturally make their way up different supports, whether the trellis is wood, plastic, wire or string. A-frame and teepee-style trellises can provide even more support for heavier plants that require extra help.
  • Green Walls
    A full green wall is a great way to verticalize your growing space, and can even be done indoors if desired. Small pots or creative containers such as rain boots, garden shoes, mason jars, small tin pails or plastic bottles can be attached to a fence or wall, or a pallet can be designed as a vertical gardening space to be hung on a wall to maximize every inch.
  • Arbors
    Arbors and archways can add to your gardening space as well as make a welcoming accent to the area. The sides of an arbor can be used as a trellis, and hooks can be added on the sides and top of an arbor for more hanging pots. Some arbors even have built-in containers for more convenient gardening.
  • Shelf Systems
    Larger than basic containers or planting pots, shelf gardening systems truly make the most of every bit of space by adding extra tiers to the gardening area. These broad gardening shelves are useful for a wide range of plants and seedlings, and are great to add to any smaller garden in need of extra space.
  • Cinderblock Walls
    A cinderblock divider or wall can easily become a fun vertical planter when the blocks are oriented to provide small spaces to use as different pots. Trailing plants are ideal for this type of space as they will drape down and cover the other exposed blocks, and the blocks themselves add visual and textural interest to small spaces.

Plants That Love Vertical Spaces

Any plants that can thrive in containers will do well in vertical gardening arrangements. Popular choices include…

  • Basil
  • Butternut squash
  • Chili peppers
  • Chives
  • Cilantro
  • Cucumbers
  • Garlic
  • Hops
  • Kale
  • Leeks
  • Lettuces
  • Mint
  • Oregano
  • Peas
  • Pole beans
  • Pumpkins
  • Radishes
  • Sage
  • Scallions
  • Spinach
  • Strawberries
  • Sweet potatoes
  • Tomatillos
  • Tomatoes
  • Watermelon

In addition to these delicious edibles, a vertical garden can also be filled in with colorful flowers, ferns, succulents and ivy. These extra plants can help beautify your small space and fill in gaps so every inch of gardening space is richly used.

Make the Most of Your Vertical Garden

To make sure your vertical garden thrives, it is vital to water it properly, as vertical gardens will dry out more quickly than a traditional garden. A watering wand can help water hanging containers or higher vertical spots more easily, and grouping plants with similar watering needs together can make this task easier. Good fertilizer is also essential to be sure plants get enough nutrition to grow properly, but choose the type of fertilizer carefully to support your plants – leafy greens and foliage plants, for example, need a different fertilizer composition than flowers, fruits or vegetables. Use pot feet, casters or wheeled stands whenever possible so you can rotate plants to get even sun exposure or to move vertical gardening arrangements into more suitable locations as seasons change. To help support taller plants, different stakes, cages and other supports can be useful and will help increase your gardening space even further.

Once you start thinking “up” instead of “out” for your garden, you’ll be surprised at just how much gardening space you really have, and how many different plants you can enjoy at all different levels.

Late Spring Gardener’s Calendar

Turn over your vegetable garden and add humus, mushroom compost or manure to enrich the soil.  Apply Bonide Fruit Tree Spray as buds swell and again at petal drop to all fruit trees.

Fertilize perennials with Dr. Earth Rose & Flower Fertilizer.

Continue spring cleanup.  Completely remove winter mulch.  Cultivate to remove winter weeds and debris from the planting beds, then edge.  Prepare your annual beds, and mulch landscape beds with shredded mulch, bark chips or gravel.   Apply Preen or Corn Gluten and scratch it in to prevent future weeds, or try the new Preen Mulch Plus which combines mulch and Preen and prevents weeds for up to 6 months.

Plant and transplant trees and shrubs, including roses, ground covers, and perennials (including hardy lilies and lily-of-the-valley).

Seed or sod new lawns.  Reseed bare spots in established lawns.  Keep the area moist until seedlings appear, then mow when the new grass is 3” high.

Put down a second application of Team or Tupersan (newly seeded lawns) for pre-emergent goosegrass control and control of crabgrass the rest of the year.

Transplant cool-season seedlings into the garden.  When the soil temperature reaches 60 degrees, sow warm- and cool-season vegetable and herb seeds.

Dig and divide crowded spring bulbs after they have finished blooming. Enrich the soil with compost, manure or Espoma Bulb-Tone.

Prune forsythia and other spring-flowering trees and shrubs after the flowers fall.

Place gro-thru sets and link stakes over or around peonies, grasses or any other perennials in need of support.

Check arborvitae, cedar, juniper spruce and pine for bagworms.  Hand-pick bags from the host and spray with Ortho Systemic Insecticide.

Begin summer rose care program of deadheading, spraying and watering.

Fertilize roses with Bayer All In One Rose and Flower Care or Dr Earth Rose and Flower Fertilizer, azaleas with Espoma Holly-Tone or Dr Earth Azalea/Camelia Fertilizer, and fruit trees with Dr Earth Tomato and Vegetable Fertilizer.

Deadhead bulbs, but leave foliage to mature and yellow before removing.  This will help nourish the bulb for next year’s flowering. Fertilize with Dr Earth Bulb Fertilizer.

Prune new growth on needled evergreens.

Dig and divide early blooming perennials after flowering.

Apply Encap Fast Acting Iron Plus or Bonide Liquid Iron Plus to azaleas, hollies, junipers, laurel, pines, rhododendron and spruce to provide iron for chlorophyll production by foliage.

Fertilize container plants and window boxes weekly with a Master Nursery Bud and Bloom Plant Food, or use Dynamite All Purpose Plant Food for season-long feeding, to promote healthy, vigorous plants all summer.

Pay close attention to the watering needs of these plants as well as hanging baskets, because they tend to dry out quickly on hot summer days.

Check plants for spider mite damage and treat with Bayer 3 in 1 Insect, Disease and Mite Control then alternate every 7-10 days with Bonide All-Season Oil Spray.

Eastern North American Native Ferns

Ferns are magnificent, whether in the wild or under cultivation. Among the oldest plants on earth, ferns can be traced back to the Coal Age, over 300 million years ago. Today, ferns are one of the most overlooked and under-utilized perennials in the garden.

Types of Ferns

Eastern North American native ferns are available in a vast array of sizes, forms and textures and thrive in a variety of habitats. Many ferns present a combination of both fertile (with spores) and infertile (without spores) fronds that add an additional element of interest to their growth and texture. Some ferns prefer sun, some shade. Some prefer moist soil, some dry. Some spread quickly, some stay put. Some are easy to grow, some… not so much. You get the picture – the versatility of this plant group ensures a selection for every gardener and every garden situation.

With so many ferns to choose from, which is right for your landscaping needs? Consider the following popular varieties, or come in to consult with our landscaping experts to find the perfect fern to complement your landscape.

  • Cinnamon Fern (Osmunda cinnamomea) – Grows 24-36 inches tall. The stiff fertile fronds appear in spring, first green and later turning cinnamon-brown. The plant grows neatly in a symmetrical clump. This fern does best in a shady site with moist soil.
  • Christmas Fern (Polystichum acrostichoides) – This is one of the few evergreen ferns native to the eastern United States. The leathery fronds of this durable fern reach 18 inches in height. The Christmas fern is not an aggressive spreader and is easy to nurture in a moist, shady garden.
  • Hay-Scented Fern (Dennstaedtia punctilobula) – This lovely fern grows to about two feet in height and spreads rapidly. Spreading may be controlled by pulling out some of the growth in spring. This fern does best in full sun to partial shade and will tolerate somewhat hot, dry sites. Hay-scented fern produces lightly scented, apple-green, lacy fronds that add delicacy to the garden.
  • Interrupted Fern (Osmunda claytoniana) – This fern is unusual for its sterile, three-foot tall fronds that have brown spore cases in the middle of the frond with pale green leaflets both above and below. Interrupted fern grows best in a shady site with moist soil. This fern will tolerate more light and drier soil than most, and it is remarkably easy to grow.
  • Lady Fern (Athyrium filix-femina) – This fern can reach up to 36 inches, although its height can be quite variable. This easy-to-grow fern is an excellent choice for beginners. In the spring, Lady ferns produce a hearty flush of reddish-green growth. This is when the plant is most beautiful. Lady fern does best in shady conditions with slightly acid, moist to wet soil.
  • Maidenhair Fern (Adiantum pedatum) – At 18 inches tall, this specimen is the daintiest of the Eastern North American native ferns. The fan-like leaves are borne on delicate, curving, black stems. This fern does best in filtered light and well-drained, cool soil. This fern spreads fairly slowly.
  • Ostrich Fern (Matteuccia struthiopteris) – This fern produces light-green, gracefully arching fronds that reach up to 40 inches or more. This is an excellent choice for background planting. Underground runners extend in all directions and will colonize large areas, so it needs abundant space. The early spring fiddleheads are edible. Ostrich fern does best in sun to partial shade and moist soil. It is native to marshy areas.
  • Royal Fern (Osmunda regalis) – This fern forms a three-foot, vase-shaped clump of bright green fronds. Light brown spores are borne on the top of the fertile fronds. Royal fern does best in shade or sun and a moist organic soil.
  • Sensitive Fern (Onoclea sensibilis) – This fern makes a spectacular ground cover of 18 inch high, light green fronds. The fronds emerge in the spring tinged pinkish-purple until maturity. This fern prefers average moisture and part sun.

Growing Veggies in Containers

Do you dream of a delicious, homegrown harvest but don’t have the land to use? No longer should a shortage of garden space prevent you from growing your own fresh vegetables. As long as you have a sunny location you can have your own mini-farm on your porch, patio, deck, balcony, roof-top or doorstep!

Why Use Containers?

The benefits of growing containerized vegetables go beyond the issue of space. There are plenty of other compelling reasons to plant your veggies in pots, including…

  1. Vegetables are amazingly ornamental and can be just as decorative as any other container plants or flowers.
  2. There are fewer problems with pests such as groundhogs, deer and rabbits and soil borne diseases.
  3. The soil in pots warms up more quickly in the spring allowing for earlier planting and an extended growing season.
  4. Less bending, squatting and kneeling is required for gardeners with limited mobility.

Vegetables can be grown in any vessel that can hold soil, has adequate drainage and is large enough to hold a plant. There are endless options available on the market or you may recycle items that you already have as long as they meet these requirements. Use your imagination – try a wheelbarrow, wine barrel or just a plastic bin, and you’re ready to plant!

Best Vegetables for Containers

While all veggies can be grown in containers, some are better suited than others. Plants that grow particularly large, that sprawl or that must be grown in large numbers to ensure an adequate yield may take more effort and careful site planning with an adequate container. Similarly, vining plants need not be avoided. Trellis these plants up against a wall or fence or allow them to cascade down from a taller pot or a container placed up high like on a stone wall. For smaller selections, a hanging basket or window box may be used. Many sprawling and vining vegetables are now available by seed in dwarf, compact or bush varieties. These are bred specifically for small spaces and containers and are worth seeking out.

Tips for Container Vegetable Gardens

Growing vegetables in containers does take some unique thought and isn’t quite the same as planting in a traditional garden. When planning your delicious container garden, consider…

  • Containers: Size matters when planting in containers. The bigger the container, the more soil it can hold. More soil more and more moisture means less watering. Take note that porous containers like terra cotta dry out more quickly and will therefore require more frequent watering.
  • Soil: When planting, choose a good quality potting mix. Soil from the ground may contain insects or disease or may be too heavy. Add an all-purpose balanced fertilizer at time of planting. It is also good idea to mix water absorbing polymers into the soil. These granules can hold up to 400 times their weight in water and help reduce watering from 30-50 percent.
  • Plants: Some of the vegetables that you select may be directly seeded into your container; these would include peas, beans, radishes and corn. With most vegetables you may wish to transplant seedlings into your container, either home-grown or garden center purchased. You will generally find a wider selection of vegetable varieties and unique options available in seed as opposed to purchased seedlings, if you want to use your containers experimentally.
  • Supports: Supports should be placed at time of planting for large or vining plants. This will ensure the young plants are not disturbed or damaged with supports added at a later time. If the supports are outside the container, however, they can be added only when they are needed.
  • Location: Your vegetables will require at least 6 hours of direct sun a day. If this is not possible you may try placing your pots on dollies or carts and moving them to a sunnier location as the sun moves throughout the day. Note that good air circulation is important for disease control.
  • Watering: Test soil frequently for water to make sure that you keep it evenly moist. Water the soil, not the plants, to avoid the spread of disease. Check soil moisture more frequently during the summer months when evaporation is faster. Mulching your containers with salt hay or grass clippings will help keep soil cool during the summer months and reduce the frequency of watering. If possible, a drip system can be a great option for keeping containers watered.
  • Fertilization: Fertilizer leaches through pots quickly. Fertilize containerized vegetables at least once a week with a water soluble fertilizer. Always be careful to follow the directions on the fertilizer package and follow the recommended rate. Too much fertilizer may burn or kill your plants, but too little will result in undernourished, underperforming plants.

With appropriate care that caters to the needs of containers, your small-scale vegetable garden can be just as lush and productive as any larger, more intensive space, and you’ll soon have a bountiful harvest to enjoy.

Dealing With Winter Damage

It’s early spring – time to survey the damage that winter has produced. In some areas, shrubs may still be hiding under piles of frozen snow, and could be crushed or compacted. Severed tree limbs may lie scattered across the landscape, and bark may be torn and stripped from trunks. It’s difficult to know what to tackle first, but fortunately, much of the damage is easily correctible.

Repairing Winter-Damaged Trees

When surveying and repairing winter damage, start with your trees – they are generally the most valuable additions to your property. As you survey the damage – broken limbs, torn bark, a tilting trunk – ask yourself “Is this tree salvageable or should it be removed?” If the damage is extensive, or you are unsure about how the damage may affect the tree’s overall health or future growth, hire a professional for a consultation. Replacing a severely damaged tree with a younger one, perhaps a type you like even better, may be the best solution.

If a limb is broken somewhere along its length, or damaged beyond repair, employ good pruning practices and saw off the remaining piece at the branch collar, being careful not to cut into the trunk or leave a stub. Sometimes a fallen limb may strip bark off the tree trunk. To repair this damage, cut the ragged edges of the loose bark away from the stripped area to firmly affixed healthy bark. Nature will take care of the rest. Even if the trunk of the tree is split, the tree may still be saved. For large trees, repairing this type of damage usually requires cabling and bracing done by a professional. If the tree is still young, the crotch may be pulled tightly together and tied or taped until the wound eventually heals.

Repairing Winter-Damaged Shrubs

Shrubs can suffer the same damage as trees, including broken limbs and stripped bark. Heavy snowfall can crush smaller shrubs, and larger varieties may have their trunks or centers split from heavy snow or ice accumulation. Most shrubs are resilient, however, and slowly regain their shape as the weather warms. If branches are bent but not broken, you may tie them together to help them along and prevent further damage from late-season storms. Do not tie tightly and remove twine after about a year. Completely broken branches may be pruned away, but take care to maintain the shrub’s form and balance, keeping in mind its growth pattern so it will not look lopsided or ungainly. Again, if the damage is severe, you may need to replace the plant.

The harder the winter is, the more of a beating trees and shrubs will take. With prompt attention in early spring, however, you can easily undo much of the damage and help your landscape recover with ease.

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Trees For Small Spaces

There’s something about putting a tree in the ground that just feels right. In many cases, you start with just a bare trunk with a few branches and then, rather quickly, it begins sprouting new growth. You nurture your new acquisition and each year it increases in height and girth. Finally, one day, you look out the window and a magnificent mature tree is there to greet you!

Choosing Your Best Tree

Trees are a permanent addition to the landscape and therefore require a great deal of thought and planning in their selection so you are not regretting your choice as the tree matures. When choosing, not only do you need to keep climate and soil type in mind, but you will also need to consider how much space you have, both above and below the ground, and how large your tree will be at maturity. Large trees should be given the room that they need to grow and thrive. Planted in the wrong location, some large trees have far reaching roots that can damage plumbing, break underground utilities and buckle pavement, not to mention branches that can tower dangerously over your roof. Fortunately, there are many small to medium trees available that look great and cause no damage when planted close to your house, sidewalk or driveway.

Top Trees for Small Spaces

  • Acer ginnala (Amur Maple) – Multi-stemmed, rounded habit, bright red fall color, 15-20’ h x 15-20’ w
  • Acer griseum (Paperbark Maple) – Upright, irregular habit, exfoliating bark, excellent red fall color, 20-30’ h x 15-25’ w
  • Acer palmatum (Japanese Maple) – Numerous varieties, textures, colors and forms and sizes for every taste and situation
  • Aesculus pavia (Red Buckeye) – Native to the southeastern United States, red upright flowers in May to early June, flowers attract hummingbirds, 10-20’ h x 10-20’ w
  • Amelanchier canadensis (Shadblow Serviceberry) – North American native, shrubby, multi-stemmed trunk tree, white flowers in early spring, edible purplish-black fruit, reddish-orange fall color, 6-15’ h x 15-20’ w
  • Betula pendula ‘Youngii’ (Young’s Weeping Birch) – Strong weeping tendency, attractive white bark, yellow fall color, 8-12’ h x 10’ w
  • Carpinus caroliniana (American Hornbeam) – Eastern North American native, multi-stemmed, smooth muscular gray bark, yellow/red/orange fall color, 20-30’ h x 20-30’ w
  • Cercis Canadensis (Eastern Redbud) – Eastern North American native, often multi-stemmed, purple-pink flowers in early spring, 20-30’ h x 20-30’ w
  • Chionanthus viriginicus (Fringe Tree) – North American native, multi-stemmed, rounded habit, fringe-like white flowers in May to early June, golden-yellow fall color, 12-20’ h x 12-20’ w
  • Cornus alternifolia (Pagoda Dogwood) – Eastern North American native, tiered horizontal branching, white flowers late May to early June, blue-black fruit, persistent coral colored fruit stalks, yellow/reddish/purple fall color, 25’ h x 25’ w
  • Cornus florida (Flowering Dogwood) – Eastern North American and northern Mexican native, rounded habit, white or pink flowers in mid-May, reddish-purple fall color, 30’ h x 30’ w
  • Cornus kousa (Korean Dogwood) – Rounded habit, vase-shaped branching habit, flowers white aging to pink in early summer, red to purple fall color, 30’ h x 30’ w
  • Cornus mas (Cornelian Cherry Dogwood) – Multi-stemmed, rounded habit, small yellow flowers in early spring, bright red berries in the summer eaten quickly by birds, 20’ h x 20’ w
  • Crataegus viridis ‘Winter King’ (Winter King Hawthorn) – United States native, broad horizontal crown, white flowers in spring, yellow fall color, abundance of small red berries in winter, 15’ h x 20’ w
  • Halesia tetraptera (Carolina Silverbell) – native, irregular to rounded and broad shaped, pendulous white bell-shaped flowers in May, Smooth muscle-like bark, 30 – 40’h x 25 – 35’w
  • Magnolia stellata (Star Magnolia) – Multi-stemmed tree with oval habit, lightly fragrant showy white blooms in early spring, ornamental smooth silver-gray bark, 15-20’ h x 10-15’ w
  • Malus sargentii (Sargent crabapple) – Mounded habit, blooms April through early May, fragrant flowers, pink-red in bud opening to white, very showy deep red fruit held in clusters, 6-8’ h x 9-12’ w
  • Prunus cerasifera ‘Thundercloud’ (Thundercloud Plum) – Rounded habit, deep purple foliage all year around, slightly fragrant pink flowers in the spring, 20’ h x 20’ w
  • Stewartia koreana (Korean Stewartia) – Pyramidal or oval in shape, white flowers in June and July, long bloom time, excellent fall color orange/yellow/red/purple, 25’ h x 12’ w
  • Stewartia ovate (Mountain Stewartia) – Slow grower, dense with spreading branches, white flowers in July, orange to red fall color, 10-15’ h x 10-15’ w
  • Stewartia pseudocamellia (Japanese Stewartia) – Slow grower, pyramidal, solitary white camellia-like flowers June to August, excellent fall color yellow/red/purple, beautiful exfoliating camouflage bark exposed in the winter, 40’ h x 20’ w
  • Styrax japonica (Japanese Snowbell) – Horizontal branching, broad flat top at maturity, hanging white flowers from late May into June, good fall color of yellow with a reddish cast, 20-30’ h x 20-30’ w
  • Syringa reticulate (Japanese Tree Lilac) – Stiff spreading branches, fragrant showy white flowers borne in early summer on panicles up to 12″ long and up to 10” wide, 20’ h x 15’ w

Overwhelmed with small tree varieties and not sure which one is best for your yard? Let our experts help you choose the perfect tree to fit your space!

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Basics of Balcony Gardens

Whether you live in an apartment, condominium or townhome, you don’t need to give up on gardening just because you don’t have a conventional yard. Balcony gardens are ideal for urban gardeners and can yield just as bountiful a harvest as any more spacious, ground-level plot.

What Kind of Garden Can You Have?

To ensure good growth, beautiful color and a vigorous harvest, you first need to assess the type of garden you can have based on the microclimate of your specific balcony. The overall space available on your balcony, including room to move around and tend your plants, can restrict some larger plantings. You should also track how much sunlight your balcony receives throughout the day, taking into account any shadows cast by nearby buildings and how the light changes in different seasons. Temperatures, breezes and general climate can all vary from balcony to balcony, even on the same building. Do not rely on local forecasts or general tips, since balcony gardens can be dramatically different from ground-level landscapes and gardens, even if your building is not overly tall.

Balcony-Friendly Plants

Just about any plant you can grow in a standard garden can also be grown in a balcony garden, so long as the climate conditions are appropriate. Herbs, fruits, vegetables and flowers are all popular, and even dwarf trees can thrive on the right balcony. Choose plant types that are intended for containers or small spaces for the best results, and use high quality potting soil and nutritious compost to nourish your garden.

Maximize Your Space

Space is at a premium in any balcony garden, and there are easy ways you can maximize your space for a lush garden. Choose larger containers that can support several plants and group your plants in layers and arrangements that will thrive together so you do not need to crowd your space with too many pots. Think vertically for extra planting space, installing a trellis or green wall to support climbing plants or vines, which will have the added benefit of giving you more privacy from adjacent balconies or close-set buildings. Hanging pots can also add vertical growing space, multiplying the number of plants in your garden. Window boxes designed to rest securely on railings can give you even more planting space, and don’t forget a small pot that can be a centerpiece for a patio table, if you have furniture on your balcony.

Caring for a Balcony Garden

A balcony garden is no more difficult to care for than a traditional garden, but there are tricks to be sure it will thrive. Because you will be planting exclusively in containers, they will need more frequent watering, and they are not likely to get adequate water no matter how much it may rain, since most balconies are covered. Provide plants with proper drainage to minimize the risk of rot, since excess water will not be able to drain away, but take steps to avoid staining the balcony’s floor by using saucers, floor mats or other coverings as needed. Using pot feet or raised stands can also help protect the balcony floor while keeping air circulating around the plants to minimize rot.

Because containerized balcony plants need more frequent watering, they will also need regular fertilizing, as the water gradually washes nutrients out of the limited potting soil. Weekly fertilizing can also help ensure your balcony garden has all the nutrition it needs. Choose fertilizer blends that are specially formulated for your plants for the best results, whether you’re growing herbs, flowers, fruits or vegetables.

Rotating plants regularly can help give them enough sunlight even when corners may be shaded, and it is easy to rotate even the heaviest pots if you place them on rolling stands or casters. This can also help you keep the plants growing evenly and will help you more easily change the arrangements of plants as their needs change or seasonal sunlight patterns shift.

As the seasons change, so will the microclimate of your balcony garden. Change the plants you use each season to keep your garden blooming, or move some plants indoors to prevent excess stress and extend their growing season as much as possible.

You also need to be sure you have the proper tools to care for your balcony garden. Hand tools are best for gently working with containers and tight spaces. Try different tools to find those that fit most comfortably in your hand and are the easiest to control for precise pruning cuts, easy digging and managing the other tasks you will need to keep your garden at its best.

Beautify Your Balcony Garden

Because your balcony is a key part of your living space, you want your garden to be beautiful as well as functional. Opt for colorful pots, but avoid too many mismatched styles and colors that can be overwhelming. Consider adding a wind chime, small tabletop fountain, gazing ball or sun catchers to the space as well. You might even be able to add a small bird feeder to your balcony, inviting wildlife to share your natural space. Nectar feeders are especially popular, and hummingbirds will be welcome visitors to your balcony garden when they also sip from any flowers you’ve planted.

You will also need to keep your balcony garden tidy. Keep plants pruned and trimmed appropriately, removing dead foliage and spent blooms regularly to encourage more growth. Clean up any soil or water spills right away to prevent stains, and keep your tools, fertilizer and other equipment stored safely.

Remember Your Neighbors

Because balconies are found in tight spaces and you likely share walls or railings with neighbors, keep your garden in its place and avoid intruding on your neighbors’ space with water drips, drooping foliage or falling seeds. Consider sharing your harvest with your neighbors – a bundle of fresh, fragrant herbs, a bouquet of homegrown flowers or even some tasty fruits and vegetables can spread goodwill and encourage even more balcony gardening in your community.

A balcony garden can be a remarkable use of space and a great way to add nature into your life, no matter how high up your outdoor space may be.

Hops for the Home Garden

Brewing your own beer is a popular hobby and great fun for any brew aficionado, but for the very best results, you need the finest, freshest ingredients. What better way to be sure of the quality of your hops than to grow your own right in your home garden? It’s easier than you may think!

Choosing Which Hops to Grow

There are more than 120 varieties of hops available. To choose which type is best to grow at home, you first must consider your climate, soil type, sunlight levels and other factors that influence any plant in your garden. Once you know which hops are best for your region, consider the individual types and whether they are favored for bittering elements, aromatic qualities, overall flavor or just as decorative plantings.

Not sure which types of hops you ought to choose? Visit your local nursery for a consultation, or contact a local home brewing group to connect with other home hops gardeners and learn more about the choices that work best for your area.

Planting Hops

All types of hops require well-drained soil and a spot in full sun to grow their very best. These plants tend to prefer soil with a pH ranging from 6-7.5 – purchase a soil test kit to learn your garden’s pH so you can add suitable amendments if needed to adjust the pH. You should also position hops where they can get adequate vertical support, since these climbing plants can reach 5-15 feet or taller, depending on the variety, and some hops will grow as high as 30 feet. They will need a strong, sturdy trellis, pole or other structure to support their growth and mature weight. In smaller yards or where vertical spaces aren’t practical, you can create a horizontal trellis to use after 8-10 feet of growth, and the plants can be easily trained to grow along the horizontal supports. Tall pulley systems can also help you grow taller hops varieties with ease.

Once you are ready to plant your hops, choose only firm rhizomes that don’t show signs of bruising, rot or mildew. Your local nursery may have several types of rhizomes to choose from, or you can contact other local brewers about swapping or purchasing different rhizomes for a variety of hops.

Caring for Home Hops

Because these plants are vigorous growers, a good fertilizer high in nitrogen will help promote leafy growth so they can thrive. As hops grow, they are also very thirsty and will require abundant water, but do not leave them soaking in puddles that will rot the roots. A drip system or soaker hose is best for watering hops consistently but without wetting the foliage, which can lead to foliar disease. Hops are particularly prone to downy and powdery mildew infestations. Trimming the lowest leaves will promote better air circulation and reduce the risk of mildew, and applying appropriate fungicides as needed may also be useful.

While it is normal for the top portion of a hops plant to die off after the harvest, keep a close watch for any diseased shoots and prune them away immediately to prevent any infections from spreading. Keep your tools well-sharpened for clean cuts, and sterilize tools regularly to avoid any cross contamination of different pathogens.

Ready for the Harvest

It may be 2-3 years before a new hops plant has grown enough to provide an abundant crop, but in time even a single plant can be a bountiful producer. When the cones have turned a rich, golden color and exude a pungent aroma, they are ready to harvest. Another clue is the texture – a ripe cone will have a dry, papery texture, and will be somewhat firm but spongy, returning to its original shape when gently squeezed. If the cone is mushy or the odor is rancid, the cone is overripe. Fortunately, because of the size of these plants, their cones ripen at different rates, and an ongoing harvest cycle is best to pick the cones at the peak of their ripeness.

After harvest, hops can be used when they are fresh, or you can dry them for later brews. Experiment with different options to find which choice you like best, and you’ll be surprised at the difference in flavor and quality your own homegrown hops can make for all your favorite brews.

Starting Up With Succulents

Succulents are charming plants and can be a great addition to your household jungle. Learning more about these popular plants can help you give them the best growing environment so they are sure to thrive and show off their unique foliage, amazing colors and fascinating structures.

What Are Succulents?

If you are familiar with aloe, agave, jade or snake plants, you already know some of the most popular succulents. But what makes these plants different from other houseplants? Succulents store moisture in their thick, fleshy leaves and can go long periods without regular watering, making them ideal for anyone with a busy schedule. These plants are also great choices for growing in arid or drought-prone areas, xeriscaping zones and rock gardens, and they are especially quaint in all sorts of containers. They are slow growers and very forgiving of occasional neglect, which makes them perfect for anyone whose green thumb might not be quite so green when it comes to houseplants. Yet with a tremendous variety of succulents available, even the most experienced houseplant gardener can find a new succulent to enjoy and appreciate.

Choosing Succulents

There are many beautiful succulents available, with sizes ranging from tiny, delicate plants perfect for a miniature scene or fairy garden to much larger, stately plants that make excellent statement pieces. When choosing succulents, look for a variety of colors, textures and shapes to experiment with, and consider mixing and matching smaller plants for more visual interest in one arrangement. Take care, however, that the plants you choose for the same arrangement have similar care requirements and needs so they can grow comfortably together. If you’re choosing larger plants, a single succulent can be amazing on its own as it reaches its full potential.

Caring for Succulents

Succulents are relatively easy-care plants, but they do have specific needs. By meeting those needs, you are sure to give all your succulents excellent care.

POTS

A pot for succulents must have excellent drainage with one or more drainage holes. These plants do not like wet feet, and unfinished terra cotta pots are perfect, as the porous pots breathe and help keep soil from retaining too much moisture. Shallow or otherwise small pots are fine for succulents, as these slow-growers don’t mind being a bit cramped.

SOIL

Fast-draining soil is a must for succulents, and there are specialized soil blends formulated precisely for succulents. Adding coarse, sharp sand or a handful or two of perlite will help improve any soil’s drainage and make it even more suitable for succulents.

FERTILIZER

These plants need only mild feeding, and a well-balanced, general fertilizer diluted to half strength will offer them the nutrition they require. Succulents should be fed monthly from spring through fall when they are actively growing, but do not need to be fed when their growth has slowed in winter.

SUNLIGHT

Succulents love bright sunlight, and will have their best color and keep their compact, geometric shapes when they get, on average, 6 hours of sunlight each day. South or west-facing windows will offer the best sunlight, and rotating pots every few days can help ensure straight, even growth. For larger succulent containers, use wheeled stands or coasters so they can be rotated easily

TEMPERATURE

These plants do well in typical household temperatures, but do like slightly cooler temperatures when their growth slows in winter. At that time, moving them to a cooler room can help ease their stress and keep their seasonal pattern intact.

WATER

While succulents thrive in arid climates, they do need proper watering to stay plump and fresh. Allow the soil to dry out between waterings, but when you do water succulents, water them thoroughly. Do not let the plants stand in water; empty saucers immediately. For larger potted succulents, pot feet, to lift the plants off the ground, will assist in drainage. Avoid pouring water directly on the fleshy leaves. Instead, water the soil using an indoor watering can.

OUR 10 FAVORITE, EASY-TO-GROW SUCCULENTS

  1. Aloe (Aloe vera) Aloe extract is frequently used in producing moisturizers and cosmetics and as a home remedy for treating burns.
  2. Echeveria (Echeveria species) Commonly known as ‘Hens and Chicks’, Echeveria come in a variety of colors, shapes and sizes.
  3. String of Pearls (Senecio rowleyanus) This unusual succulent has a unique leaf that is the shape, size and color of a small pea. It is typically grown in a hanging basket to suit its creeping habit.
  4. Paddle Plant (Kalanchoe tetraphylla) Large, rounded, think, paddle-shaped leaves give this succulent its unique look. The leaves take on a reddish tint in the winter.
  5. Jade Plant (Crassula ovata) Long-lived and very easy to grow, the Jade plant takes on the look of a bonsai tree as it grows and is considered a symbol of good luck.
  6. Zebra Plant (Zebra haworthia) This succulent has a similar growth habit to an Aloe but is dark green with white stripes, small and very slow growing. The Zebra Plant is a great addition to a succulent terrarium.
  7. Burro’s Tail (Sedum morganianum) This is another succulent that is usually planted in a hanging basket. The unique Burro’s Tail sports small, thick, fleshy leaves whorled on drooping stems.
  8. Snake Plant (Sansevieria trifasciata) The Snake Plant thrives on neglect and can take less sun than most other succulents.
  9. Christmas Cactus (Schlumbergera x buckleyi) This holiday blooming favorite is another succulent that, due to its trailing habit, may be planted in a hanging basket. This plant is fantastic for holiday gift giving.
  10. Panda Plant (Kalanchoe tomentosa) This darling succulent, sometimes called ‘Pussy Ears’ is a favorite of children as it has grayish-blue, velvety, succulent leaves.

Low Light Houseplants

Plants brighten up any room, help clean the air and bring a bit of nature inside, but indoor spaces rarely have the same levels of bright, natural light many plants enjoy in their native habitats. Without adequate light, a plant’s foliage may be dull or turn yellow or brown, growth will be slow and flowers may fail to bloom. Choosing low light houseplants is an ideal solution for any indoor space, and there are many beautiful plants that can thrive in a dim environment.

20 Best Houseplants for Low Light

There are many reasons to opt for low light houseplants. Some rooms, such as bedrooms and bathrooms, generally have lower than average light levels. Some homeowners use window shades, blinds or curtains for temperature control, which reduces the light available for indoor plants. Even bright rooms may have dim corners or shadowed spaces where light isn’t as intense. The exposure of any window also affects the sunlight it brings indoors, with north and west windows generally having lower light than south and east windows. Changing seasons also changes how much sunlight comes through any window, with less light available to indoor plants in fall and winter. Fortunately, there are many outstanding houseplants that can grow well in lower light conditions. While the best plants for your home will also vary based on humidity conditions and the care you can provide, houseplants that don’t mind lower light include:

  • Begonia (Begonia)
  • Bromeliads (Aechmea)
  • Cast Iron Plant (Aspidistra)
  • Chinese Evergreen (Aglaonema)
  • Corn Plant (Dracaena fragrans)
  • Dumb Cane (Dieffenbachia)
  • Heartleaf Philodendron (Philodendron hederaceum)
  • Lucky Bamboo (Dracaena)
  • Maindenhair Fern (Adiantum)
  • Parlor Palm (Chamaedorea elegans)
  • Peace Lily (Spathiphyllum wallisii)
  • Peperomia (Peperomia)
  • Ponytail Palm (Beaucarnea recurvata)
  • Pothos (Epipremnum aureum)
  • Prayer Plant (Calathea)
  • Rubber Plant (Ficus elastica)
  • Snake Plant (Sansevieria)
  • Spider Plant (Chlorophytum)
  • Sword Fern (Polystichum munitum)
  • ZZ Plant (Zamioculcas zamiifolia)

These are just a few of the most widespread, popular indoor plants that can do well with lower light levels. Check at your local nursery or garden center for additional varieties that are adapted to your region’s climate, especially during the winter months when houseplants are much more widely available.

Caring for Low Light Houseplants

It is important to note that whatever type of houseplant you choose, a designation as “low light” does not mean the plant can thrive in darkness. All plants need some light, but low light plants can still thrive in indirect or filtered light rather than several hours of bright sunlight each day. To give your low light plant the very best indoor habitat, you will also need…

  • A proper pot or other container.
    The pot will need to be the right size for the plant and its anticipated growth, without being too big or too small. Adequate drainage is also essential to prevent root rot and other care difficulties.
  • Suitable soil or potting mix.
    Garden soil has too many contaminants to be good for houseplants, but choose a soil with good nutrition for the type of plant it will nurture. Add coir, peat or other potting material if necessary to adjust the soil composition.
  • Proper watering.
    Inadequate water or overwatering can both be deadly for houseplants. Know what water your plant needs and adjust the watering schedule based on the plant’s size and seasonal needs throughout the year. Watering gauges or automatic watering tools can help you be sure you aren’t drowning or drying out your houseplants.
  • Regular feeding.
    Because houseplants rely on the same soil and can’t stretch their roots out to seek extra nutrition, regular fertilizing is essential. Choose the proper fertilizer for the plant type and feed gently rather than risk burning delicate roots with overfeeding. Slow-release fertilizers formulated for indoor plants are one of the best options.
  • Increased humidity.
    Indoor air is often much drier than the air outside, and houseplants can dry out more quickly without the proper humidity. Adding a humidifier in a room with houseplants, grouping plants together, misting regularly and providing a humidity tray are all ways to help.
  • Occasional dusting.
    With no regular breezes to blow away debris, houseplants can become dull and dingy without being dusted, and dust can clog their pores. Use a soft, clean cloth to gently wipe the foliage, or give plants an occasional shower to rinse away unwanted dust.

Every home can be made brighter with houseplants, even in darker rooms where there wouldn’t seem to be enough light. By choosing the right low light houseplants and caring for them appropriately, even a shadowy corner of your home can be a restful bit of nature.

Light Up Your Landscape

When the sun goes down, your landscape doesn’t need to go dark with it. There are many energy-efficient, attractive options for landscape lighting that can showcase your favorite specimen plants, prized flowerbeds and unique landscaping features even long after dark.

Why We Need Light

Plants don’t need light 24 hours a day, so why is adding light to the landscape so popular? There are many reasons why you should consider adding a nighttime glow to your garden and yard.

  • Entertaining: If you use outdoor space for entertaining, proper lighting can make it a bright, enjoyable area when your guests arrive and keep the party going even after sunset.
  • Safety: The right lighting can help keep you safe when you’re enjoying your yard by illuminating stairs, gates and walkways to minimize the risk of trips or falls.
  • Curb Appeal: Good landscape lighting highlights your home, lighting up not only plants but also stunning garden accents and your house’s amazing architectural features.
  • Holiday Fun: If you have good lighting in place, it will be simple to add extra holiday lighting to your landscape whenever you wish, or to swap out bulbs for fun holiday colors.

Basics of Landscape Lighting

When you’re ready to light up your landscape, you will want to…

  • Mark Boundaries
    Show off the flowing curves or geometry of your flowerbeds and landscape features by using lights to mark different boundaries. You can also light up property lines or show the edges of pathways, decks and driveways to create inviting illumination that will welcome guests to your home.
  • Guide Not Glare
    It is easy to go overboard with landscape lighting, but less can be more when adding a glow to your property. Consider where shadows fall to create a sense of space and texture with your lighting, and use cleverly positioned lights to draw eyes just where you want them.
  • Consider Color
    While you can choose landscape lights in both warm and cool colors depending on the type of lighting you prefer, don’t forget to consider the colors of the plants and structures those lights are highlighting. This will help you create a cohesive, attractive lighting design.
  • Spotlight Specimens
    If you have a stunning specimen plant in your landscape, a favorite piece of yard art or even an unusual architectural feature on your home, use lighting to highlight that detail. Uplighting and spotlights can be useful for showing off your proudest features.
  • Use Ground Level Lights
    Lights set into the ground are often overlooked, but they can be an amazing component of landscape lighting. You can recess lights to help illuminate a pond, pool or other water feature, as well, giving the water a luscious glow after dark.
  • Set a Mood
    The way you light up your landscape will create an evening and nighttime mood for your property. Lights can be positioned to create a dramatic feel, a romantic ambiance or an exciting party atmosphere. You can even opt for different types of lights to change the mood as desired.
  • Avoid Light Pollution
    Too much light, or lights that are poorly positioned, can create light pollution that leaks through windows, lights up unwanted spaces, shines in the eyes of passersby or intrudes on neighbors’ spaces. Check your lighting plan carefully to be sure it is safe and attractive at all times, and consider timers to help control your lights appropriately.

From simple solar lights to spotlights, lanterns, specialty lights and even fun light strands, there are many different ways to light up your landscape and bring a bit of brightness to even the darkest nights.

Gussy Up the Veggie Garden

A vegetable garden is the ultimate in practical landscaping, and a thriving veggie patch can not only be a bountiful supplement to a grocery budget, but also an enjoyable hobby and great exercise as you sow seeds, nurture plants and take up your delicious harvest. One thing a vegetable garden does not need to be, however, is drab, and there are many fun ways to gussy up the veggie garden to show off your personal flair and gardening charisma.

Why Beautify a Vegetable Patch?

As more gardeners expand their cultivated plots into side yards and even front yards, keeping a vegetable garden attractive is essential. Not only can a lovely vegetable garden be attractive to the neighborhood, but it increases curb appeal for your home, raises awareness about the beauty of vegetables and allows you to take just as much pride in your garden’s appearance as you do in your harvest. Adding more personality to your vegetable garden is also a fun way to discover more gardening techniques and show off your more colorful side.

Fun Ways to Gussy Up the Veggie Garden

There are many different ways you can give your garden a more colorful personality, and we have everything you need to do so. While you may not want to use every technique in your garden depending on the veggies you grow and the space you have available, trying just one or two fun tactics can give your garden a great makeover.

  • Liven Up the Lines
    Instead of planting vegetables in straight rows, embrace the twists, turns and curves of your landscape with a curvy garden. You can create a pattern of colors and shapes, or use different edging options to delineate the sections of your garden in more visible ways.
  • Pretty Up Your Paths
    You don’t have to use plain dirt paths in your garden when there are colorful mulches, unique stepping stones and other options to create more interesting pathways. Try river rocks, multi-colored gravel, crushed shells, bricks or other options to define paths more beautifully.
  • Build a Beautiful Border
    Define your garden’s edge with a beautiful border. Decorative fences can be quaint, or you can plant flowers all around the garden for extra color. Use deer- and rabbit-resistant flowers such as poppies, marigolds, zinnia and verbena to help protect your garden at the same time.
  • Create Bursts of Color
    Add more color to your garden with whimsical touches such as colorful tomato cages or painted support stakes. You can also add a brilliant gazing ball, a fun seasonal decorative flag or other colorful accents to add instant vibrancy to your veggie garden.
  • Add an Amazing Arbor
    An arbor or pergola can be an amazing architectural accent in your garden. This structure can be functional as well when it provides a bit of protection for shade-loving veggies or includes a bench with hidden storage for your favorite garden tools, hoses or other equipment.
  • Verticalize Your Veggies
    Go up, up, up with your veggie garden space when you embrace vertical gardening. You can hang baskets from an arbor, trellis or poles, or create a green wall or other vertical gardening space that climbing plants will love, and you’ll see your harvest multiply.
  • Secret Spaces to Make You Smile
    Your vegetable garden doesn’t need to be nothing but growing space, and you can add a whimsical garden gnome, fairy garden setup or other secret space to the garden. You might even include a small bench or meditation fountain for extra enjoyment.
  • Welcome Beneficial Wildlife
    Bring helpful visitors to your veggie garden when you add a bee house, butterfly feeder, hummingbird feeder or bird bath to the garden. These helpful pollinators will appreciate the assistance and will repay your generosity as they increase the yield of all your veggies.
  • Select Stunning Seedlings
    The seedlings you add to your veggie patch can go a long way toward beautification when you choose plants with colorful foliage or unique produce. This also gives you a chance to experiment with new plants, and you might discover a new favorite vegetable along the way.
  • Fill In With Flowers
    Quickly add color and texture to your vegetable garden when you fill in short rows and corners with extra flowers. This is a great way to expand your garden and avoid thin or bare patches that detract from your garden’s beauty.
  • Make Magnificent Markers
    Marking plant rows and types keeps your garden organized, and you can do it with flair when you choose colorful or whimsical plant markers. Painted rocks, fun signs, cheerful flags and other options can denote your plants while adding beauty to your garden.
  • Class It Up With Containers
    A bright pot or planter box can be an attractive addition to your veggie patch, and will add extra color as well. This is a great way to add herbs, mints, berries or other fun plants to your garden. Elevate smaller pots with plant stands or pot feet to give more dimension to the garden.

With so many fun options to gussy up your veggie garden, your gardening patch can be just as beautiful as any carefully cultivated flowerbed or meticulously groomed lawn – and more delicious!

Grow a Salad in a Single Pot

You don’t need a large, sprawling garden to enjoy a crisp salad fresh-picked from your own plants. With careful choices and proper care, you can grow a healthy, delicious salad in just one pot!

Best Pots for Growing Salads

Ideally, larger pots with ample room for a variety plants are best for growing container salads. Deeper pots will allow for better root development and easier drainage to be sure plants don’t become waterlogged. A taller pot can also be easier to cultivate, without the need to crouch down to tend the plants or harvest tasty bites. Taller pots will also permit more use of trailing, overhanging plants that will maximize your growing space.

So long as it is a good size to accommodate your salad choices, any type of pot or container can be suitable for growing a salad. Clay or ceramic pots are beautiful options, but you may prefer plastic pots because they are lighter and easier to move around. For more rustic choices, consider using half-barrels, a wheelbarrow or a galvanized tub. If you don’t eat a lot of salad but still want to grow your own, you can even use a window box. Round or oblong, rectangular or square, any shape of pot can be suitable for salad growing as long as it meets the plants’ needs for space and drainage.

You may need to drill, punch or poke holes in the bottoms of solid containers to be sure they have suitable drainage. For larger, heavier pots, you should also consider pot feet, casters or rolling stands so you can more easily rotate the pots for even sun exposure and to relocate the pot throughout the season for the very best growing conditions.

Plants for a Container Salad

Any plants you enjoy in salads can be grown in pots for an attractive and practical arrangement. Growing a container salad is also a fun opportunity to try new plants for unique flavors, which can make you even happier to be adding more healthy greens to your meal plan.

  • Greens
    Tasty greens are the basis for any salad, and you can grow many different types of lettuce in a pot. For more variety, consider including spinach, Swiss chard, kale or endive to liven up your salad’s leafiness.
  • Vegetables
    Add more tastes and textures to your salad with a variety of vegetables. Tomatoes, radishes, onions, carrots, cucumbers and banana peppers are just a few salad-friendly options that do well in pots.
  • Berries
    For a salad with a sweeter side, nothing beats fresh berries. If you’re using a larger pot you will have plenty of room for strawberries, raspberries or blackberries to add a sweet and tasty tang to your salads. Raspberry and Blackberry plants can get rather large so choose dwarf varieties.
  • Flowers
    There are many edible flowers that can add a colorful burst to your pot and a unique taste to your salad. Consider Calendula, Nasturtium, Hibiscus, pansies and violets as well as lavender to add colorful flavors to your salad.
  • Dressing
    While you can’t grow the oil or vinegar for your salad in a single pot, you can use fresh herbs to give your salad a finished flavor that is even healthier and more fragrant. Chives, basil, cilantro, dill, mint, parsley and other herbs do very well in container salads.

When choosing which seedlings to add to your salad pot, opt for plants with similar growing requirements so they can all get the proper care. If necessary, you might have several pots growing different salad components so you can have even more variety and a bigger harvest.

Caring for a Container Salad

It’s no more difficult to care for a container salad than any containers you may grow. To ensure your plants are as lush and lucrative as possible, use a rich potting soil with plentiful nutrition and adequate drainage. For very large pots, you may want to add a small layer of gravel to the base to improve drainage and help balance a taller pot so it won’t accidentally tip. Position the pot in a sunny location, but protected from the harshest weather conditions.

When planting your salad seedlings, don’t be afraid to crowd them a bit, since you will be harvesting them throughout the season, which will improve air circulation and provide more room for fresh growth. Provide regular fertilization, opting for a formula with more nitrogen to encourage stronger foliage growth for even more harvestable greens. Water the container regularly, and consider using a drip system to help keep the soil properly and evenly hydrated. When the plants are very young and delicate, you may want to cover them with a layer of wire mesh to keep pests away, and you’ll need the proper hand tools to carefully weed your salad pot until the plants are large enough that weeds are no longer a concern.

To keep your salad growing richly on all sides, rotate the pot regularly so the sunlight reaches all plants evenly. Take care to move the pot as needed throughout the growing season as light exposure and shadows change, and you’ll lengthen the growing season and be able to harvest even more salads.

Harvest and Enjoy!

Thinning your plants with every salad you create will keep your pot growing deliciously. You can harvest baby greens and younger plants, and you’ll discover delightfully different tastes with plants at different levels of maturity. Try different combinations of plants for every salad, and you might be surprised at how eager you are to try new and different salads with every harvest and every meal!

Plant a Patriotic Flower Garden

A patriotic flower garden can be a great way to show off your national pride, support a military serviceman or servicewoman, or just add decorative flair to your yard or landscaping for summer holidays. With careful steps, your flower garden can be filled with red, white and blue pride for the entire neighborhood to enjoy.

When to Be Patriotic

While a red, white and blue flower garden can be enjoyed any time from early spring through late fall, these color combinations are more popular for celebrating summer holidays. From Memorial Day in late May through Flag Day (June 14), Independence Day (July 4) and even to Labor Day in early September, a patriotic flower garden can be the perfect decoration. These designs are also popular for summer barbecues, family reunions and other celebrations. Whenever you want your garden to be in its full, colorful bloom, however, be sure to choose suitable flowers with planting times and growth habits that ensure they look their best on the desired date.

Planning the Flower Garden

You can turn an existing flowerbed into a patriotic display or plan an entirely new flower garden to show your patriotic pride. Regardless of which flowerbed you use, there are different factors that should be considered to make sure the bed looks its very best.

  • Size
    Any size flower garden can show patriotic colors, but it needs to be carefully designed so all the colors are seen equally. Larger flowerbeds are easier to design colorfully, though it does also depend on where the flower garden is positioned. If the garden is in a very visible space, a smaller garden can be just as delightful as any larger flowerbed. For mini gardens, patriotic plantings may be constructed in a single pot with one thriller, one filler and one spiller plant to give the arrangement balance and movement.
  • Shape
    Any flowerbed shape can be patriotically designed, whether it is a small, narrow bed, a larger round bed, a spot beneath a tree or alongside a house or fence. A curved bed might lend itself well to a “waving flag” type of design, while a round bed could become a star pattern. Simple color blocking can be used in any bed shape to create a patriotic color scheme.
  • Location
    It is important that a patriotic flower garden be visible, not only for your enjoyment, but also for your guests, whether those guests are neighbors passing by your yard, visitors enjoying a barbecue party or anyone else who may see the bed. Properly positioned, the flower garden can be a welcome statement for your yard as well as a focal point for your landscape.
  • Design
    There are many beautiful designs for patriotic flower gardens. You could create an image in flowers, such as planning colors and arrangements to mimic an American flag, or you might create star shapes with the different colors. Simply balancing patriotic colors in different tiers can be a lovely option as well.

Coloring Your Patriotic Flower Garden

There are many different and beautiful ways to incorporate red, white and blue into a patriotic flower garden, both with plants as well as decorative accents.

  • Red
    Popular red flowers for a patriotic bed include astilbe, gerbera daisies, cockscomb, dianthus, begonias, dahlias, poppies, camellias, impatiens, geraniums, petunias, salvia and ranunculus. Choose flowers with bold, rich red shades that aren’t too pale or pinkish. Other red accents could include red brick edging, a bright red gazing ball, red hummingbird feeders or even red mulch such as wood chips or lava rock.
  • White
    White stone edging, a short decorative fence or river rocks can frame a patriotic flower bed, and there are many stunning white flowers to fill that bed. Heliotrope, astilbe, petunias, gerbera daisies, jasmine, camellias, peonies, chrysanthemums, yarrow, ranunculus, anemone, vinca, dahlia and hyacinth are just a few options that can add a burst of white to the bed. You can also consider red and blue flowers that have white accents in their blooms.
  • Blue
    It can be difficult to find blue flowers with the proper rich hue for a patriotic flower garden. Options include cornflower, flax, globe thistles, periwinkle, salvia, harvestbells, desert bluebells, sweetpea and lobelia. To add more blue tones, consider a blue gazing ball, ceramic blue bird bath or blue containers and pots in the proper blue shades rather than having too much purple-like coloration.

More Tips for a Patriotic Flower Garden

There are many other fun ways to give your flower garden even more patriotic flair. Choose flower types that have star shapes in their blooms or coloration, or opt for big, bold blooms that resemble bursts of fireworks. Adding ornamental grasses to the bed can give it a sense of fireworks as well, or you can go vertical with a colored trellis or arbor, such as a blue structure to support red and white flowers. Add flag stakes to decorate the bed and there will be no mistaking its patriotic nature.

To be sure your garden looks its very best right before a party, holiday or other celebration, trim away excess greenery so as much red, white and blue color is exposed as possible. Also trim, prune or pinch away any blooms that have faded or discolored, especially white blooms that may be showing brown edges that can detract from the flowerbed’s beauty. With a little care and attention, your patriotic flower garden will be brimming with colorful spirit all summer long.

The N-P-K of Fertilizer

Once upon a time, Mary, Mary, Quite Contrary grew her garden with silver bells and cockleshells, but nowadays, most gardeners use some other forms of fertilizer that are better formulated than nursery rhymes. But what important components make up a fertilizer, and why are those components important for your plants?

Understanding Fertilizer

Simply put, a fertilizer has nutrients to make a plant grow better. Years ago, farmers used composted manure, ashes and urine. Today, most of us buy our fertilizer, but a trip to the store can be confusing. What do those numbers on the fertilizer bag mean? Should I buy liquid or granular? Which is better, slow or quick release? Let’s investigate…

Without getting too technical, the three numbers show the percentage of available nitrogen (N), phosphate (P) and potassium (K) in a fertilizer blend. By law, it always goes in that order. If you see a fertilizer with 20-5-10, it means the fertilizer contains 20 percent available nitrogen, 5 percent phosphate and 10 percent potassium. Other nutrients and filler make up the difference and are often chosen for specific types of plants, such as roses or flowers, vegetables, trees, etc.

What does that mean to your plants?

  • Nitrogen promotes chlorophyll, producing greener, more quickly growing plants. If your plants aren’t as green as they should be, use a fertilizer with nitrogen. Most lawn fertilizers have a relatively high nitrogen content and cause mowing to be more frequent as lawns “green up” and grass blades grow more quickly.
  • Phosphate improves root growth, flowering ability and bloom size. Use a fertilizer with a larger middle number (phosphate percentage) to encourage root growth during transplanting or to encourage blooms. This is especially important when initially planting so root systems become strongly established.
  • Potassium enables the photosynthesis process and improves plant resistance to cold spells, drought and insect attacks. Many people use a potassium fertilizer when the seasons change to help plants resist the stresses of those transitions.

Liquid or Granular? Fast or Slow?

Fertilizers come in liquid and granular forms. Generally speaking, liquids are highly concentrated and need to be mixed with water before being fed to plants, but they are absorbed more quickly and are easy to apply more evenly. Granular formulas have small beads or grains that must be spread around and watered into the soil, and it can be difficult to spread an even layer over large areas unless a spreader is used. Granular forms need time to dissolve or decompose before they can be absorbed, but they last longer in the soil and can nourish plants for weeks or months.

Similarly, fertilizers come in fast or quick release forms as well as slow release forms. Both can work well in any garden, depending on your fertilizing needs, plant nutritional requirements and condition of your soil.

Read the label carefully for specific instructions and uses. It may seem boring, but reading that label will prevent bad results, as overuse or misuse of fertilizer can kill your plants, upset the balance of your soil and even cause environmental contamination – not the results you planned. Once you know more about fertilizer and how to use it correctly, however, you’ll enjoy the results this extra treat can give to your garden.

Watering When Away

It’s vacation time! You’re going to be gone for two weeks or more, your friends, neighbors and family members are all busy and the weatherman says it’s going to be “hot, hot, hot.” What about your houseplants?

Fear not! A few minutes of thoughtful planning and a quick trip to the garden center will ensure meeting your plants’ watering requirements even when you can’t be home for daily moisture checks. Popular and effective solutions include…

  • Pre-Watering: Before you leave on your trip, make sure your plants are well-watered. Many houseplants can withstand some watering neglect, and if you aren’t gone too long, they may not need any supplemental solutions if you’re watered them right before your trip. Take care not to overwater, however, or you could be compounding the problem.
  • Anti-Drought Solution: Prior to leaving, water with an anti-drought solution. It temporarily forces the plant into dormancy. This reduces the water requirement for roughly two weeks (effective control will vary by product and plant type) while the solution gradually wears off. This can affect blooming or growth periods, however, so read instructions carefully and use the solution exactly as directed.
  • Self-Watering Containers: Planting your houseplants in self-watering pots is truly looking ahead. A reservoir holds water under the pot, and this water gradually travels to the soil via a wick, always keeping the soil moist so long as the reservoir contains water. If you want to use a specific pot without a built-in reservoir, use a conversion kit. Various sizes are available and some use fill tubes. Consider adding liquid fertilizer to the reservoir water to ensure your plant gets proper nutrition while you are away.
  • Individual Pot Drippers: These generally hold water above the plant. Various sizes and styles provide water to small and large pots. From beautiful blown glass globes to simple plastic bottles, these allow water to drip down into the soil through a drip-tip inserted in the soil. One style even looks like a flask attached to the side of the pot with a tube dripping water to the soil. Because they show above the plant, many people only use them during their vacation.
  • Automatic Watering Systems: These are more elaborate but very effective options. A large water reservoir feeds to clustered houseplants through small tubing attached to drippers inserted in the soil. Larger pots use two or more drippers. These systems pump water on a regular basis using a battery and timer, making them ideal for regular watering when you may be taking a longer trip. These also allow liquid fertilizer in the reservoir so your plants are properly nourished.

Go ahead and enjoy your trip…your plants should be fine!

Early Spring Gardener’s Calendar

* Plan your summer vegetable and herb garden. We offer a wide selection of seeds that include all of your favorite annuals, perennials, vegetables and other novelties as well as many hard-to-find selections. Inventory your pots and flats and discard unusable ones. Make a list of the supplies you will need. Have your garden soil tested for nutrient content. We offer a variety of do-it-yourself soil test kits.

* Prune woody plants while dormant, including fruit trees, summer- and fall-blooming shrubs and vines. Limit pruning of spring-blooming trees and shrubs to the removal of sucker growth and rubbing or broken branches. Spray trees and shrubs with year-round horticultural oil to reduce insect population.

* Sharpen, clean and oil tools and lawn mowers. Begin heavy annual pruning of shrub roses as new leaves appear.

* Plant pansies, English daisies and primrose as soon as the earth is workable. Plant strawberry plants. Sow cool-season vegetables and herbs in the garden.

* Start spring cleanup and begin major lawn work. Remove debris, dethatch your lawn or aerate compacted areas to improve water penetration.

* Spray needles and limbs of Arborvitae, Cryptomeria, false cypress, fir, hemlock, Juniper, pine, yew and spruce (except blue spruce) for spider mites with year-round horticultural oil.

* Apply fertilizer to perennials and roses with. Feed berry bushes, grapevines, rhubarb and asparagus a balanced 10-10-10 fertilizer before new growth begins. Fertilize trees and shrubs.

*Apply crabgrass preventer with fertilizer to feed the lawn and control crabgrass. Do not use on newly seeded lawns.

* Continue spring cleanup. Cultivate to remove winter weeds and debris from the planting beds. Apply corn gluten or a pre-emergent herbicide with fertilizer specified for gardens and scratch it in to prevent future weeds. Do not use in gardens where you will be direct seeding.

* Reseed bare spots in established lawns. Keep the area moist until seedlings appear, then mow when the new grass is 3? high.

* Prune forsythia and other spring-flowering trees & shrubs after the flowers fall.

* Dig and divide crowded early spring bulbs after they finish blooming. Enrich the soil with bone meal.

* Plant and transplant trees and shrubs, including roses, ground covers, and perennials.

* Transplant cool-season seedlings into the garden. When the soil temperature reaches 60 degrees, sow warm-season vegetable and herb seeds.

* Place gro-thru sets over peonies, grasses or any other perennials in need of support.

Summer Gardener’s Calendar

Continue planting trees, shrubs, perennials, annuals, vegetables and herbs. Consider adding some exotic color to your deck or patio with tropical blooming plants. We have a great selection of color this summer.

It’s time for your houseplant’s summer vacation! Take outside to a shady place. Repot if necessary, fertilize and check for pests and diseases. They’ll thrive in their outdoor location all summer. Be sure to bring them back inside in early fall.

Water plants and lawns deeply during periods of dry weather. Annuals, perennials, vegetables, trees and shrubs should be watered with a slow trickling or soaker hose. Pay extra attention to plants in containers and hanging baskets – check them regularly. Remember that clay pots dry out faster than plastic.

Apply a 2-3″ layer of mulch on your garden beds in preparation for summer. Mulch conserves valuable moisture in the soil, helps keep weeds down, maintains even soil temperatures, and gives an attractive finishing touch to your beds and borders.

Spray azaleas, Pieris japonica, laurel and Rhododendron with Bonide All-Season Oil to control lacebug. Spray early in the morning or evening when temperatures are moderate and there is no rain in the forecast.

Warm, humid weather encourages the development of fungal diseases such as Black Spot and Powdery Mildew on roses. Water roses in the early morning and avoid overhead watering if possible. Clean up any fallen leaves and follow a regular fungicide spray program. We recommend the Bayer Rose and Flower All in One for good control of fungus diseases.

Prune evergreens such as pines, cypress, hollies, euonymus and boxwood, to shape as needed. Remove faded flowers of annuals regularly, to encourage more flowers. Annuals will also benefit from regular applications of a water-soluble fertilizer right through summer.

Attract hummingbirds and butterflies to your landscape by planting Butterfly Bush, Bee Balm (Mondarda), Hardy Hibiscus, Lobelia, Scabiosa and Coreopsis.

Holiday Gardener’s Calendar

Winter is upon us. Depending upon the temperatures, there may still be time to finish remaining chores. If you have any questions about the following procedures or products, please come in and see us. We can help you select the correct dormant oil, fertilizer, selective herbicide and frost protection method. We’re always here to help.

General Landscape

  • Mulch with bark, compost or other local materials to enrich soil, protect plant roots and prevent erosion.
  • Protect plants from frost and wind.

Houseplants

  • Perk up tired houseplants by removing dead and dying leaves. Wash under a soft shower in the sink or tub.
  • Spider mites proliferate in warm dry winter homes. Check for mites by looking for tiny speckles on leaves.
  • Transplant if roots are growing through the drainage holes or over the pot edge. If you don’t want to move into a larger pot, untangle the roots and cut back by 1/3, scour the pots and replant with new soil.
  • Remember to turn your plants each week as they begin to grow towards the weaker window light.
  • For indoor bloom, plant amaryllis, paper white narcissus, hyacinth, crocus and indoor cyclamen.
  • Popular holiday plants such as poinsettias, chrysanthemums and orchids fill the stores. Check them thoroughly for “hitchhikers” before bringing into the home or spray with household plant insecticide or soap.
  • Be creative in your arrangements and combine them with metallic painted twigs, pinecones or seashells.
  • If using a live tree for a “living Christmas tree”, prolong its time indoors by using Wilt-Pruf to reduce the loss of moisture from the needles.

Lawn:

  • Remove leaves, toys, hoses, etc, from lawns to prevent dead spots.
  • Apply winter fertilizer, if not already done. The middle number, phosphorus, aids root growth during the winter.
  • If you have weeds in your lawn, consider using a winter fertilizer with weed control.
  • Mow one time after lawn goes dormant and before freezing. This last mowing should be 2 ½” tall.
  • When temps are freezing, stay off the lawn as much as possible to reduce blade breakage.

Vegetables:

  • Protect cool season vegetables with row covers, leaf or mulch cover.
  • Mulch beds to enrich and protect from rain/snow erosion.
  • Review gardening notes and plan next year’s garden.
  • Test germination rate of leftover seeds, if wanting to use again.
  • If gardening under lights or in heated greenhouse, start seeds of early spring crops: lettuce, kale, mustard, spinach, and other greens.
  • Harvest carrots, lettuce, greens and over-wintering crops.

Trees and Shrubs

  • Stake young trees and vines if needed. In case of a heavy freeze, use Wilt-Pruf or similar product to reduce transpiration of moisture.
  • Prevent southeast trunk injury, a form of winter freeze damage. Use light-colored tree guards to protect the trunks of young trees for at least two years after planting. After two years, paint the trunks with white latex paint. These two methods prevent the tree trunk from splitting when sunlight warms the bark on side of the trunk.
  • Fertilize shrubs and trees, if not done already, and the ground is not frozen. This allows roots to absorb when temperatures are above 40⁰ and when spring returns. Granules and spikes provide nutrients effectively and easily.
  • Prune out dead and diseased tree branches to prevent from falling on roof or pedestrians.